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A Distinctive Design Celebrating the Heritage of American Watchmaking
During the transitional period from the early 1900s to the 1920s, some wristwatches appeared with the winding crown placed in an uncommon position on the case. This was often the result of watch companies converting movements and dials originally designed for pocket or pendant watches into wristwatches, positioning the crown at what is typically the 1:30 or 2:00 position.
Paying homage to the distinctive aesthetics of those early wristwatches, the American watchmaker RGM draws inspiration for its latest creation, the Model 222-RR. At the heart of its design is the famed Ferguson Patented Dial, one of the most well-known aftermarket dials in the United States. Originally patented in 1908 by L. B. Ferguson of Monroe, Louisiana, Louis Buck Ferguson began marketing his unique dial to the railroad industry. By 1911, after successful market testing, he established the Ferguson Dial Company in Monroe.
The first Ferguson dials were manufactured by the renowned O’Hara Dial Company in Waltham, Massachusetts. Ferguson produced several early variants before finalizing the design that became known as the standard “Ferguson Dial.” Key features included large five-minute numerals around the periphery and an inner ring with red hour figures, both enhancing legibility for railroad workers.
The RGM Model 222-RR features a polished 316L stainless steel case with straight lugs and a slim bezel, topped by a box-style sapphire crystal. A flat sapphire crystal case back reveals the movement within. Measuring 41 mm in diameter and 12 mm in height, the case offers a balanced presence on the wrist, while its 50-meter water resistance ensures everyday practicality. The crown, positioned at 1:30, not only recalls early 20th-century designs but also offers a natural reading angle when worn on the left wrist.
Its Grand Feu enamel dial takes direct inspiration from vintage American railroad watches. The blued-steel hands remain faithful to the period style, and the sub-seconds dial retains its traditional orientation in line with the 12 o’clock position. Because of the unusual numeral arrangement, each dial is paired with a custom set of hands—the hour hand significantly shorter to align with the inner red hour ring, and the minute hand of standard length. To aid quick reading, the hour hand is painted red to match the red hour markers.
Inside beats a vintage Hamilton 10-size pocket watch movement, a hallmark of RGM’s craftsmanship. The brand was the first to integrate these classic movements into wristwatches. Each movement is fully rebuilt using only the finest-condition components, including a newly manufactured mainspring. Steel parts are flat-polished by hand on a tin block to achieve a finish superior to the original. Every step—from meticulous assembly to precise adjustment—is handled by a single watchmaker. The Hamilton Grade 921 features 21 jewels and was produced in large quantities, while the rarer Grade 923 boasts 23 jewels, with fewer than 4,000 ever made. Both operate at 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz).
Completing the watch is a thick brown leather strap. Pricing depends on the movement: USD 8,950 (approximately AED 32,870) for the Grade 921, and USD 9,950 (approximately AED 36,540) for the Grade 923.
For more information visit the official website of RGM.
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