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Paying Tribute to One of Breguet’s Most Iconic Pocket Watches
After much teasing, it's finally here: the Classique Souscription 2025, a new creation from Breguet introduced to celebrate the brand’s 250th anniversary. With this release, Breguet signals its direction for the future, rooted in innovation while remaining deeply respectful of its storied past. This legacy, filled with innovation, was discussed in detail in this article.
The design of the Classique Souscription 2025 draws directly from the legendary 1796 Souscription pocket watch. However, it introduces a fresh aesthetic and technical refinement, including a newly developed gold alloy, aptly named Breguet Gold.
This unique alloy, composed of gold, silver, copper, and palladium—offers exceptional resistance to discoloration and enhances long-term stability. It also provides a distinct brilliance and a subtly muted yellow hue compared to traditional yellow gold, which Breguet describes as a "blond" shade.
Housed in a 40 mm case with a height of 10.8 mm, the watch marks a departure from classic Breguet designs. The traditionally fluted case band has been replaced by a softly satin-brushed mid-case that pays homage to historic pieces while embracing a more ergonomic, modern form.
The redesigned lugs are curved for a better fit on the wrist, offering a more fluid silhouette than the brand’s traditional straight lugs. A domed sapphire crystal protects both the front and back of the watch, contributing to a water resistance of 30 meters.
On the reverse, a new guilloché motif, dubbed the Quai de l’Horloge pattern, adorns the gold ring around the exhibition caseback. This design is inspired by the winding outlines of the Île de la Cité and Île Saint-Louis in the Seine River, a nod to the historic location of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshop in Paris.
The dial is a true work of art. Crafted in white grand feu enamel over a gold base, it features petit feu black Arabic numerals in the signature Breguet style, along with a classic minute track and the maison’s name proudly placed at 12 o’clock. A "secret" engraving at 6 o’clock, done using a diamond-point pantograph, includes the watch's serial number, the Souscription name, and Breguet’s signature, further linking it to its historical ancestor.
In line with the original concept, the watch features just one blued steel hand with Breguet’s iconic open-tipped design. This hand completes a full revolution every 12 hours. Between each hour marker, dashes indicate five-minute intervals, with bold accents at the quarter hours.
Powering the Classique Souscription 2025 is the hand-wound Caliber VS00, a new movement inspired by the architecture of the original Souscription pocket watch. Its plates and bridges, crafted in gold-plated brass to match the tone of Breguet Gold, feature a symmetrical layout and are secured with blued screws. The components are finished with shot-blasting, offering a fine matte texture that adds depth and complexity to the movement’s appearance.
Running at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), the movement delivers an impressive 96-hour power reserve from a single barrel. The ratchet wheel at the center bears an inscription inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet’s own marketing language from 1797 yet another tribute to the maison’s legacy.
The watch is paired with a navy blue alligator leather strap and secured by an 18K rose gold pin buckle. The Classique Souscription 2025 is priced at CHF 45,000, approximately AED 198,500.
Special Edition 250th presentation case in red leather, individually numbered, inspired by Breguet’s Moroccan leather cases of the period.
For more information, visit Breguet official website.
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