Introducing Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC, A Legacy of Excellence

Eight years ago, the Chopard Group, led by co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, breathed new life into the illustrious Ferdinand Berthoud legacy with the introduction of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud in 2015. During this period, the brand has captivated collectors and secured three prestigious GPHG awards. This success is attributed to its upscale, exceptionally precise, and meticulously crafted timepieces, which serve as a tribute to the revered 18th-century Swiss watch- and clockmaker for whom the company is named.

Within its FB1 and FB2 collections, the brand has presented various complications and mechanisms, including power-reserve and lunar-cycle indicators, deadbeat seconds, tourbillons, and remontoires, The company has excelled in every detail of these watches, but in its third collection, it abandoned all complications and presented a smaller watch to meet the desires of the brand’s fans who asked for a watch to be worn every day. The company responded with a timepiece that encompasses all the company’s knowledge and creativity.

Today marks a major development for the Val-de-Travers-based outfit because not only has Chronometry Ferdinand Berthoud announced the launch of a new watch the Chronometer FB 3SPC but it also features a totally new, COSC-certified, in-house movement with cylindrical hairspring, inspired by the work of Berthoud’s nephew, Louis Berthoud. FB 3SPC inspired from one of the pieces that came out of the Berthoud workshop during this post-French Revolution period was the No. 26 decimal pocket watch from 1793, The model was originally proposed in g two editions the Ref. FB 3SPC in 18k white gold with a 2N gilded movement, and the Ref. FB 3SPC.2 in 18k red gold with a black rhodium-treated movement component. It now comes in an attractive combination of a white gold case and black-finished movement, unveiled on the occasion of Dubai Watch Week 2023.

The Chronometer FB 3SPC hasn’t just seen Chronometry Ferdinand Berthoud develop a new movement, it also has a new case. The round 18k white gold housing does replicate some features of the company’s round cases in the past, including screwed lugs and caseband porthole that here allows for lateral views of the contracting and expanding hairspring. But crucially, at 42.3mm by 9.43mm, this is the thinnest and arguably most wearable timepiece to date. Finally, the sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating on the dial side and the back are slightly domed. Its style is more classic than the design of previous Berthoud models. Still, it is fitted with signature features such as the large crown allowing for easy operations and the porthole in the case middle at 9 o’clock which offers a captivating view of the beating cylindrical hairspring.

On the dial side, an array of six bridges made of nickel-silver, traces a beautiful layout. At 9 o’clock, ample space is dedicated to the regulating organ  balance wheel, pallet-lever and escape wheel and their distinctive stepped bridges. The barrel is positioned at 12 o’clock under an arched bridge. The lower part of the dial features the seconds indication while the hours and minutes can be read on the ring at the periphery of the movement. At 2 o’clock, the power-reserve indicator is engraved in a sector graduated in 12-hour segments from “0” to “1”. The left-hand side is dedicated to the regulator with the balance and escapement positioned in line each with a bridge.

Visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back, a black-finished movement. And as always with Berthoud, the greatest care is taken in the crafting and finishing of all components. The execution is simply spectacular. The hand wound  FB-SPC, the caliber made in house, beats at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) with a power reserve of 72 hours. Although the movement is hand-wound, it is fitted with a slip-spring to avoid overwinding. 

The cylindrical hairspring found in the FB3 SPC is built entirely in-house, requiring a huge amount of research and development by the Ferdinand Berthoud team. The only way the Ferdinand Berthoud team was able to manage it is by physically curving the hairspring by hand, with a profile projector, in two key places: where the spring attaches to the balance wheel, and where it meets the pin of the balance cock. All together, it took a total of two years of work for Ferdinand Berthoud's watchmakers to perfect the design of the cylindrical hairspring and ensure its ability to meet the COSC standard of precision. 

The watch comes with an alligator leather strap. Various sizes are available on request, with an 18-carat white gold pin buckle. 
The watch is not a limited edition, but the production is restricted due to the capacities of the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud workshop in Fleurier and is priced at CFH 140,000 which is equivalent to 583,000 AED.

For more information, please visit the official website of Ferdinand Berthoud.