Article of the week
Breitling Showcases Its Latest Movement in the Top Time B31 Editions

Breitling introduces three new editions to its renowned Top Time collection, featuring time-and-date-only displays, marking a departure from the collection’s traditional focus on modern chronographs. Originally launched in the 1960s, this sporty timepiece was a significant success for the brand.

As one of the first chronograph watches designed for both men and women, the Top Time now takes a new direction with an innovative design powered by an entirely new movement, the B31 caliber. 


 

Introducing Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar

A New Calibre and Hand-Guilloché Dial Mark the Maison’s 270th Anniversary

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle watch embodies the rich heritage of haute horlogerie in 18th-century Geneva. With its classic appeal, featuring a round case with a stepped bezel, a dial that showcases the brand's craftsmanship, and elegant dauphine hands with a railway minute track, the timepiece reflects timeless sophistication. Now, in celebration of its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin honors its high craftsmanship with the release of the "Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar," a limited edition of 127 pieces crafted entirely in platinum.

In 2005, to commemorate its 250th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin introduced the "Saint Gervais" edition, equipped with a hand-wound caliber featuring a tourbillon regulator and a perpetual calendar mechanism, powered by four barrels, offering an exceptional 250-hour power reserve. Today, the brand merges these two high complications in a new self-winding caliber with a slim design.

The guilloché artisans at Vacheron Constantin drew inspiration for the dial from the brand’s rich heritage. The design is based on the iconic dial of reference 6068, launched in 1955 to mark the company's 200th anniversary. The dial also takes cues from the Maltese cross, Vacheron Constantin’s emblem since 1880, reflecting a profound connection to tradition.

The watch features a 42mm case with an 11.1mm thickness, crafted entirely from 950 platinum with polished surfaces. Its classic round design aligns seamlessly with the elegance of the Traditionnelle collection. The silver dial is made from an 18-carat gold plate, adorned with a hand-guilloché pattern specially designed to commemorate the brand’s 270th anniversary. 

Elegant dauphine hands and 18-carat gold hour markers complete the sophisticated look. The tourbillon serves as a seconds indicator, while the perpetual calendar functions are distributed across three subdials for the day, date, and month, with a small leap-year window positioned at 2 o’clock.

The "Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar" houses the self-winding caliber 2162 QP/270, measuring just 6.55mm in thickness. Vacheron Constantin developed this caliber based on the 2160 movement launched in 2018, with enhancements to accommodate additional complications while maintaining its ultra-thin profile.

The tourbillon regulator counteracts the effects of gravity on the balance spring’s oscillation, while the perpetual calendar displays the day, date, month, and year, accounting for leap years, requiring no manual adjustment until the year 2100. The 2162 QP operates at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), a relatively slow beat reminiscent of historical pocket watches. As we discussed in a previous article, you can read more about frequency here. 

This slower cadence offers a clearer view of the mesmerizing mechanical dance of the tourbillon, surrounded by subdials showcasing the perpetual calendar functions. The caliber also features a patented safety mechanism for the perpetual calendar, with a flexible component on the wheel that allows for calendar adjustments in both directions without the risk of damaging the movement.

The case back reveals a peripheral rotor, a technical choice aimed at preserving the movement’s slimness while offering a 72-hour power reserve. This peripheral rotor also provides an unobstructed view of the movement components, featuring a special engraving marking the 270th anniversary and "Côtes Uniques" finishing on the bridges.

The watch is paired with a dark blue Mississippi alligator leather strap with a platinum folding clasp and is limited to just 127 pieces.

 

 For more information, visit Vacheron Constantin official website.

Technical Specifications: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar
  1. Reference: 6300/000P-H056
  2. Case: Platinum case, polished, sapphire crystal from both sides 
  3. Diameter: 42 mm
  4. Thickness: 11.1 mm
  5. Water Resistance: 30 meters
  6. Dial: silver-toned,18K gold hand guilloché dial, 270th anniversary motif inspired by the Maltese cross, 18K gold applied hour-indices and Dauphine-type hours and minutes hands, counter hands in 18K gold 
  7. Movement: Self-winding Caliber 2162 QP/270, 324  components, peripheral rotor, 30 jewels
  8. Power Reserve: 72 hours
  9. Frequency: 18,000 VPH (2,5 Hz)
  10. Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon cage, Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap-year indication)
  11. Bracelet/Strap: Dark Blue Mississippiensis alligator strap and platinum folding clasp
  12. Availability: LImited Edition to 127 pieces
  13. Price: Upon request

0 Comments