Editorial Breitling Navitimer: The Watch That Does More Than Tell Time
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These watches combine craftsmanship and unique designs, reflecting the independence of this category of companies
In the intricate world of horology, a distinct and fascinating realm exists that of independent watchmakers. As we delved into this captivating subject, I discovered a universe where craftsmanship and passion converge to make timepieces that transcend the ordinary. This article embarks on a journey through the niche yet thriving domain of independent watchmaking, where each tick represents a labor of love and dedication.
An independent watchmaking operation is one that prioritizes a small-scale approach annual production may be in the single digits, the dozens, the hundreds, or the low five figures, but there's always an inherent scarcity to any specific watch release simply due to the level of handcraft and the smaller number of staff involved in its development and production, compared to a major-label brand or one that's owned by a conglomerate. Independent watchmaking is often where the true innovation in our industry takes place in design, in mechanics, in craftsmanship. Moreover, the Independent watchmakers have the skills to not only work on the most complicated of movements, they are the creative force behind their companies. They have the ability to design and build a watch from the ground up, in most cases manufacturing their own movements or the majority of the parts contained therein. the four Best Indie Watches of 2023 selected by the Waqt.
Derek Pratt Remontoir d’égalité X Perpétuel Galerie
We begin with one of the watches with a rich heritage, bearing the name of a genius in haute horlogerie, Derek Pratt, who passed away in 2009, leaving behind a significant legacy. Pratt's legacy has been meticulously preserved, primarily through the unwavering dedication of the italian watchmaker Luca Soprana. Collaborating with Perpetuel Galerie, Luca Soprana assumed control of the project in 2014 with explicit approval from the Pratt family. He undertook a complete redesign of the caliber, emphasizing Derek’s signature, characterized by the remontoir d’égalité and the two flying barrels.
This masterpiece features a 316L steel case, measuring 41.64 mm in diameter by 12.6 mm in thickness. It boasts a sapphire crystal on both sides, a polished bezel, and lugs with vertically brushed sides on the case middle. The salmon-shaded dial showcases applied oriental Arabic numerals in stainless steel, with small seconds positioned at seven o’clock. The hand-wound movement, comprising 216 components, named Caliber DP07. Crafted, built, manufactured, and assembled in the Ateliers 7h38 workshop in Vaumarcus, Notably, it is a Remontoir d’égalité with deadbeat seconds. Limited to only seven pieces.
Voutilainen CSW Worldtimer
This year, Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen presented one of his most beautiful designs, a world timer watch. Known for his dedication to precision and aesthetic sophistication, Kari presented a watch that combines stunning design with the functionality of old world watches. Differing from the brand's traditional circular case, the Voutilainen CSW Worldtimer (cushion-shaped) watch has a stainless steel case measuring 39 mm and 12 mm thick, decorated with four screws at each corner, and it offers a new and modern touch to the brand's style. The guilloche pattern stands out on the silver enamel base, along with a unique wave shape in the middle, giving it an air of elegance.
This watch is more than just a marvel of design, it's also a mechanical powerhouse. Powered by caliber 216TMZ, it is a hand-wound movement that features an all-new escape lever and an oversized balance wheel. The center of the dial is a rotating 24-hour world time disc, accompanied by a peripheral city ring (inner bezel) that marks central Europe and the Finnish city of Kemi. This feature is a tribute to Voutilainen's Finnish roots.
Simon Brette Chronometre Artisans
Simon Brette, an independent watchmaker since 2022, has recently unveiled his inaugural timepiece, the Chronomètre Artisans. This watch has been submitted to the LV Watch Prize and has garnered critical acclaim from watch comunity. The Chronomètre Artisans is a highly intricate time-only piece, featuring a case made of zirconium. It represents a classical embodiment of watchmaking, seamlessly integrating Haute Horology finishes with a top-tier, in-house caliber. For more in-depth information about this watch, you can explore the full article.
Lederer Watches Central Impulse Chronometer
Bernhard Lederer, the German vanguard of haute horlogerie, who ingaurtes his atelier in Neuchâtel Switzerland. introduces two exceptional timepieces in his journey Series 3 and Series 4 of the celebrated Central Impulse Chronometer. This remarkable chronometric narrative stands as a testament to Lederer Watches's dedication to innovation and precision. With only 25 pieces in each series, these collector's editions not only signify exclusivity but also represent the pinnacle of horological craftsmanship. True to its name, the Central Impulse Chronometer showcases an innovative escapement mechanism that has captivated experts worldwide. Bernhard Lederer's prowess shines through in the 44mm case housing this marvel. The symphony of horological engineering includes a novel constant-force escapement and a dual gear train, culminating in an intricate dance of two synchronized seconds hands moving in opposing directions. The dial, adorned with an exquisite guilloché pattern, showcases an exclusive Lederer design. The Central Impulse Chronometer’s architecture is flawlessly accentuated, providing a visual symphony to match its precision.
Our exploration into the world of independent watchmakers unveils not only exceptional timepieces but also the stories of visionary craftsmen. As we admire the artistry behind each creation, this independent spirits that continues to shape the future of horology. In a market saturated with mass-produced timepieces, these artisans stand as beacons of uniqueness, crafting watches that are not just instruments to tell time but expressions of artistic ingenuity and dedication to the timeless craft of watchmaking.
Independents are an important part of the horological landscape. We've selected four watches from these independent companies, but the year 2023 was full of wonderful pieces. You can discover the best independent brands from this section.
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