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Celebrating the Brand’s 150th Anniversary with the Calibre 7138
Audemars Piguet celebrates its 150th anniversary and brings with it a groundbreaking development: the new Calibre 7138, an innovative self-winding perpetual calendar movement. This new movement marks the first-ever perpetual calendar watch with a fully integrated all-in-one crown, streamlining the traditionally complex adjustments of these sophisticated timepieces.
Perpetual calendar watches are considered to be one of the most complicated mechanisms to work with, and the Calibre 7138 introduces a simplified interface, eliminating the need for fiddly correctors that typically require tools for adjusting the subdials. This innovative mechanism took over five years to develop and has five patents allowing users to control every function of the watch via the crown, while also increasing water resistance from 20 meters to 50 meters.
The first model in this trio is the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar. This striking timepiece features a 41mm case crafted from 18-carat white gold, measuring 10.6mm in thickness. The case is paired with a glareproofed sapphire crystal and a glareproofed sapphire caseback.
The dial showcases a deep smoked blue hue with embossed textures, complemented by 18-carat white gold hour markers and hands that feature luminescent material for enhanced legibility. The watch is presented on a blue rubber-coated strap lined with calfskin and includes an 18-carat white gold folding clasp. The watch is priced at CHF 95,200, which is approximately AED 391,500.
Next is the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in stainless steel, which maintains the 41mm case size but features a blue dial with the brand’s signature "Grande Tapisserie" pattern. This reference is crafted in stainless steel and boasts a glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback. The thickness is 9.5mm, and the dial integrates subdials and a matching inner bezel, ensuring perfect legibility of all perpetual calendar functions.
The watch comes with an integrated stainless steel bracelet and an AP folding clasp. Like the other models, the functions are adjusted via the crown, eliminating the need for additional tools. This model is also priced at CHF 95,200, which is approximately AED 391,500.
Lastly, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in 18-carat sand gold offers a more luxurious take on the iconic design. The 41mm case, with its glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, and has a thickness of 9.5mm. The dial features a sand gold-toned "Grande Tapisserie" pattern, with a matching inner bezel and subdials that feature black indicators.
The 18-carat white gold hour markers and luminescent hands enhance the watch's readability. This model is paired with a fully integrated 18-carat sand-gold bracelet and an AP folding clasp. The price for this model is available upon request.
The Calibre 7138 perpetual calendar movement is designed with user-friendly ergonomics, allowing all adjustments through a single “all-in-one” crown with four operating positions. In its default state you can wind the crown. Pulling the crown out once (Position 2) enables dual adjustments: turning clockwise changes the date at 12 o’clock, while counterclockwise adjusts the month and leap year indicator at 3 o’clock. Pulling the crown out again to Position 3 allows the user to set the time both forwards and backwards.
The real genius of the Calibre 7138 is in its fourth operating position. By pushing the crown back to Position 2 and turning it clockwise, the day of the week is adjusted, while turning it counterclockwise sets the moonphase. This clever design integrates a fourth function into an intuitive sequence of movements from Position 2, to Position 3, then back to Position 4. At 9 o’clock, a 24-hour indicator with a red “no correction zone” from 9 p.m. to 3 a.m. prevents adjustments during this period to avoid damage. The movement automatically locks if changes are attempted within this timeframe, eliminating the risk of accidental breakage.
The movement displays the hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, week indication, day, date, month, moon phase, and leap year. The movement is an in-house, ultra-thin automatic that measures 4.1mm in thickness and includes 422 components. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and offers a 55-hour power reserve.
For more information, visit Audemars Piguet’s official website.
Technical specifications: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
| Technical specifications: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar
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