Editorial Types of Finishes That Adorn Movement Components
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The indie watchmaker continues to innovate with a masterpiece reflecting the highest craftsmanship
Independent watchmaker Simon Brette has launched a new edition of his acclaimed Chronomètre Artisans, now crafted in luxurious rose gold. The French engineer, who made waves with his debut timepiece in 2023, quickly garnered attention for his exceptional craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail. His efforts were recognized when he won the prestigious 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève “Horological Revelation” award for the Souscription Edition. Staying true to his original vision, Brette continues to focus on high-end finishing and artisanal excellence with this latest release.
While the previous edition was made of zirconium (and titanium for the prototype), this new timepiece is crafted from red gold. It maintains the same dimensions as its predecessor, with a diameter of 39 mm and a height of 10.5 mm. The case features a harmonious blend of brushed and polished surfaces, complemented by a screwed-down bezel and case back offering 30 meters of water resistance.
A distinctive hallmark of the brand, a white gold decorative element adorns the side of the case at the 9 o’clock position, adding a subtle yet refined touch.
The asymmetrical dial reflects a perfect balance between tradition and modernity. Partially open, it reveals the intricate gear train and kinetic components of the movement. Crafted from solid rose gold (5N), the dial is meticulously hand-engraved and coated with a dense black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) finish. This technical coating, prized for its brilliance and resistance, enhances the dial’s visual depth, creating a striking contrast between the intense black surface and the warmth of the gold components.
The dial’s decoration, named “Battle,” is a masterful fusion of motifs from previous editions, combining the “Dragon Scales” and “Tiger Claws” patterns to create a unique and dynamic relief.
The watch features two-tone stainless steel hands coated with a 5N gold PVD finish for improved legibility. A circular hand marks the hours, while a baton-style hand indicates the minutes. The small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock is surrounded by a white transparent ring, a material also used for the outer minutes chapter ring, adding a cohesive and modern aesthetic.
Powering the Chronomètre Artisans is the same manual-winding movement as in previous editions but with significant finishing enhancements. While earlier versions featured brass plates, this updated movement boasts rose gold plates and bridges, which beautifully contrast with the silver twin barrels. The movement delivers an impressive 72-hour power reserve.
At the heart of the SBCA caliber is an oversized balance wheel with variable inertia adjustable weights, oscillating at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz). The movement is a testament to artisanal watchmaking, showcasing exceptional hand-applied finishing techniques.
The Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans Rose Gold is a limited edition of 50 pieces. However, as is often the case with independent watchmakers operating on a traditional “souscription” model, all 50 timepieces were sold before production even began. Priced at 85,000 CHF
approximately 348,000 AED.
For more information, visit Simon Brette official website.
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