The Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar by Roger Dubuis

This year, Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary, and for the occasion, the company pays tribute to its co-founder’s favourite complication: the bi-retrograde display.

This function, previously featured in the Excalibur Grande Complication alongside a dozen other highly complex mechanisms, takes centre stage once again. The Maison has also introduced a less complicated, more classic edition to further honour the bi-retrograde display.

Also referred to as “the ecliptic counters” by the Maison a nod to their elliptical shape and distinctive role in indicating the months and date the design showcases a symmetrical dial layout. Enhanced by refined detailing, it pays homage to the Maison’s early creations from 1996.

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Introducing Panerai Unveils The Radiomir GMT Goldtech Perpetual Calendar

A highly complicated watch in a Goldtech case, celebrating the 90th anniversary of the Radiomir

ByWaqt

25.10.2024

4 minutes read

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To celebrate the anniversary of the Radiomir, the first wristwatch prototype created by Panerai on October 24, 1935, Panerai has introduced the Perpetual Calendar complication to this iconic collection, unveiling the new Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech. Expanding the Radiomir lineup, this timepiece is distinguished by Panerai's exclusive Goldtech, paying homage to the collection that most epitomizes the brand's origins.

The watch's classic cushion shape is crafted from Panerai’s proprietary Goldtech, a unique rose gold alloy with a high copper content and a hint of platinum, resulting in a richer red hue and enhanced resistance to fading. Measuring 45mm in diameter, the watch exudes a refined, neo-vintage aesthetic that retains the hallmark features of the original Radiomir prototypes, with an added touch of luxury. Despite its elegance, the Radiomir Perpetual Calendar maintains the robustness for which Panerai is known, offering 100 meters of water resistance.

The distinctive sandwich dial comes in a white sunray finish, featuring hours, minutes, and a GMT hand at its center. At 3 o’clock, a classic day-date display is positioned, while a multifunction subdial at 9 o’clock showcases small seconds and a 24-hour hand with a day/night indicator.

This, however, is just the beginning of the complications offered by the Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453. Through the exhibition caseback, additional functions are visible, including indicators for the year, leap year, months, and power reserve.

Powering the PAM01453 is the P.4100, an automatic movement developed over five years, allowing crown-only adjustments for the day, date, month, and leap year. The watch also incorporates a GMT complication with a 24-hour display, making it ideal for tracking multiple time zones.

Despite its complexity, the movement is compact at just 35.1 mm in diameter and 7 mm thick. It features a gold micro-rotor and a double-barrel system, providing a 72-hour power reserve, which is especially beneficial for a power-intensive perpetual calendar with multiple precise functions.

Completing the look is a brown alligator strap paired with a polished Goldtech buckle. The PAM01453 is available exclusively at Panerai boutiques for GBP 35,100, which is approximately AED 167,500.

For more information visit Panerai official website.

Technical specifications: Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech

Reference: PAM01453
Case: Polished Goldtech case, polished bezel,sapphire crystal, conic crown at 3 o'clock, day corrector at 8 o'clock
Diameter: 45 mm
Water resistance: 100 m
Dial: sandwich dial, white sun-ray finished, small seconds subdial and 24h indicator at 9 o’clock, day and date window positioned at 3 o’clock, Arabic numerals mixed with indices in Super-LumiNova,
Movement: In-house Automatic caliber P.4100, two barrels, micro rotor, 55 jewels
Power reserve: 72 hours
Frequency: 28,800 VPH
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar, GMT, day/night indicator, on the case back, month, year, leap year, power reserve
Bracelet / Strap: dark brown alligator strap with polished white gold buckle.
Price: GBP 35,100 which is equivalent to 167,500 AED