Konstantin Chaykin Breaks the Record for World's Thinnest Mechanical Watch

For many years, the world’s leading watchmaking companies have been competing to produce the thinnest mechanical watches. Prestigious brands such as Piaget, Bulgari, and Richard Mille have been at the forefront of this race, with Bulgari securing a prominent position, dominating various categories. Recently, Bulgari made headlines by reintroducing its ultra-thin minute repeater during the first day of the Geneva Watch Days. Piaget previously held the title for the thinnest tourbillon watch at the Watches and Wonders event.

However, a new contender has emerged from Eastern Europe. Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin unveiled a prototype that puts him at the forefront of the ultra-thin watch category.

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Auction One of the Rarest Timepieces from the Upcoming Phillips 'Reloaded' Auction

Going back to the rebirth era of mechanical watchmaking with exceptional pieces

ByWaqt

2 weeks ago

8 minutes read

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Phillips never ceases to amaze the watch community with its auctions, and this year has been no exception. We've seen the sale of extremely rare watches, some making their first-ever public appearances, fetching record-breaking prices. However, Phillips is set to transport us back to the rebirth era of mechanical watchmaking, 1980 to 1999. This period marked a significant renaissance for the mechanical watch industry, as it faced the challenges of the quartz crisis.

During these pivotal years, watchmakers poured their passion into creating some of the most innovative and complex mechanical timepieces ever seen. Now, Phillips is showcasing these extraordinary watches from that era, with a special focus on unique and iconic designs. The auction will culminate in a highly anticipated “Reloaded” auction on November 8th at Geneva's Hotel President. As part of the upcoming Geneva Watch Days, a curated selection of auction highlights will be on display at Phillips' Geneva showroom, located at 7 Rue de la Confédération, from August 29th to September 2nd. This preview offers a glimpse into the treasures that will soon go under the hammer.

Rolex ‘Rainbow’ Daytona Ref. 16599

One of the standout highlights from the upcoming auction is the First-Ever ‘Rainbow’ Daytona Ref. 16599, estimated at more than CHF 3 million/AED 12.9 million. This unique white gold Daytona is a rare gem that saw the light now after spending decades in a private collection. Created as a one-off kind masterpiece in the 1990s, this Rolex showcases a bezel set with a stunning array of degradé-hued sapphires that transition from deep red to purple, mimicking the colors of the rainbow. At the time of its creation, this groundbreaking design was unlike anything the market had ever seen.

Though the ‘Rainbow’ Daytona is now recognized as one of Rolex’s most exclusive timepieces, nearly two decades passed before a production series version was introduced. This particular watch features a unique rainbow color scheme distinct from all later models. Previously, the market had only seen Zenith El Primero caliber-based Cosmographs with bezels set with a single type of baguette stone, making this piece exceptionally rare. The First-Ever ‘Rainbow’ Daytona offers collectors a remarkable opportunity to acquire a technically and visually stunning masterpiece from Rolex’s storied history.

F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoir d’Egalité 15/93

The second watch in this exceptional lineup is the Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoir d’Egalité 15/93, a truly special piece that has an estimated price of CHF 2 million/AED 8.6 million. It holds the distinction of being the first wristwatch ever sold by François-Paul Journe, marking the beginning of F.P. Journe as a brand. Launched in 1999 as part of a 20-piece subscription set, this watch played a pivotal role in establishing Journe's reputation. Before becoming a celebrated watchmaker, Journe crafted unique pieces for a select group of collectors, and this particular Tourbillon is the second wristwatch he ever made, as well as the first he sold.

This 1993 timepiece is unmistakably a Journe creation, with signature features like a gold movement, a dial design showcasing visible elements such as the power-reserve indicator at 11 o’clock, and a solid caseback. Featured on the cover of Jean-Pierre Grosz's book “Invenit et Fecit” It is one of only three watches handmade by Journe himself. The watch is meticulously engraved by hand, with inked inscriptions on the dial, and is numbered ‘15/93,’ signifying both the year it was made and its place as Journe’s 15th timepiece. Adding to its historical significance, the watch comes with the original technical drawings, articles, and the invoice.

Philippe Dufour Duality

Next, we take a look at the exceptional Philippe Dufour Duality, a timepiece that approximately has nine examples ever produced, and has an estimated price between CHF 800,000 - 1,600,000/ AED 3.4 million - 6.9 million. This previously unknown 10th piece was specially crafted for a dedicated collector and stands out with its unique configuration. It features a fully brushed platinum case, a dark gray dial with pink-gold indexes and hands, and a movement devoid of inscriptions. Its authenticity and rarity are verified by the Certificate of Origin.

Introduced in 1996, the Duality was groundbreaking as the first wristwatch to incorporate a double escapement, with two independent balance wheels linked by a central differential gear to improve accuracy. Dufour drew inspiration from a school watch created at the Vallée de Joux Watchmaking School and successfully miniaturized this complex mechanism for use in a wristwatch. Although originally planning to produce 25 pieces, Dufour's intricate design and market constraints led to the belief that only nine were completed. However, this 10th and final piece, fresh to the market and offered directly by the original owner, represents a monumental chapter in the history of independent watchmaking.

Urban Jürgensen Pocket Watch by Derek Pratt

Last but certainly not least, we have an extraordinary Oval Pocket Watch, crafted by one of the 20th century's most skilled watchmakers, Derek Pratt, for Urban Jürgensen. This fully handmade timepiece is remarkable not only for its distinctive oval shape but also for its advanced flying tourbillon, featuring a remontoir and a detent escapement. The detent escapement, a detached escapement, allows the balance wheel to swing freely for most of its cycle, enhancing the precision of the watch. This watch has an estimated price of CHF 1,000,000/AED 4.3 million.

Crafted over the span of more than two decades, from 1983 to 2005, this watch is housed in a brushed platinum case, with a hand-finished movement signed ‘Urban Jürgensen’ and ‘Invenit et Fecit’. As the technical director at Urban Jürgensen & Sønner, Pratt personally handcrafted this masterpiece with the assistance of Kari Voutilainen. Coming from the prestigious collection of Dr. Helmut Crott, this watch makes its auction debut during “Reloaded” this November, presenting a rare chance to acquire a timepiece that embodies the pinnacle of horological artistry and tradition.