Editorial The Art of François-Paul Journe & the Evolution of his Tourbillon Timepieces

At Waqt, our editorial team holds a deep respect and admiration for the independent watchmaking scene. We believe that the creativity, dedication, and innovation found in independent watchmakers are essential to the evolution and richness of horology. Among these pioneer figures, François-Paul Journe stands out as one of the most influential figures of our time.

François-Paul Journe, the French master watchmaker behind F.P. Journe has been immersed in the world of watchmaking from a young age. His early years were marked by a passion for creating unique, high-quality mechanical watches with in-house movements, staying true to the principles of haute horlogerie. After obtaining his diploma, Journe honed his skills by working with his uncle on the restoration of complex and historically significant pocket watches, including tourbillon models from the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet and George Daniels.

François's journey into watchmaking began in 1978 when he started crafting his own pocket watch. By January 1983, at just 25 years old, he had completed his first self-made pocket watch featuring a tourbillon movement. In 1985, he opened his own workshop, catering to the discerning tastes of clients who sought bespoke movements and pocket watches. It wasn't until 1991 that Journe introduced his first wristwatch to the public, marking the beginning of a new chapter in his illustrious career.

The watch featured a rare complication that would become a hallmark of many of François-Paul Journe's future creations: the remontoir d'égalité, which is used to provide force to the escapement. This timepiece laid the groundwork for the design ethos of F.P. Journe as it is known today. It eventually evolved into the Tourbillon Souverain, one of the brand's iconic collections and a significant milestone in its journey. Crafted from platinum, the watch boasted a simple, clean case that drew attention to the movement. This hand-made movement, constructed from solid gold, showcased apertures for both the tourbillon and the remontoir d'égalité, with an off-centered dial for the hours and minutes positioned on the right side of the watch.

In 1999, François-Paul Journe established his brand and introduced a series of watches known as the Souscription Tourbillon. For those unfamiliar, "Souscription" is French for "subscription," a system where customers make a down payment to reserve or subscribe to a watch that has yet to be made. This method was notably used by watchmakers like Breguet in the late 18th century to gauge demand and secure funds for production. The subscription model aimed to attract more potential clients, offering early subscribers or buyers a discount on the future retail price in exchange for their patience. This approach allowed François-Paul Journe to cover his costs and produce additional watches to be sold at the regular price. 

Each piece is individually numbered on both the dial and the caseback. The watch closely resembles the original 1991 Tourbillon model, with some key differences. It now features an open caseback, and a brass caliber instead of gold. However, still maintaining the same layout as the prototype models with the tourbillon on the left, an off-centered dial at 3 o’clock, and a power reserve at 12 o'clock. The case is crafted from platinum, and measures 38mm in diameter. Following these early subscription models, the ingenious watchmaker added the Deadbeat Seconds complication. However, it wasn’t until 2019, in celebration of the brand's 20th anniversary, that F.P. Journe decided to completely revamp his signature tourbillon watch with the introduction of the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical.

The Tourbillon Souverain Vertical, as its name suggests, features a tourbillon that is now placed vertically within the watch—an uncommon and innovative design in watchmaking. The dial is adorned with a Clous de Paris pattern, and the movement plate is crafted from solid 18k rose gold. The watch adheres to the signature F.P. Journe style, showcasing a vertical 30 seconds tourbillon at 9 o’clock, a power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock that now aims to the left, an off-centered grand feu enamel dial for the hours and minutes with blued hands at 3 o’clock, and the deadbeat small seconds at 6 o’clock.

You might be wondering why the tourbillon is positioned vertically. To understand this, let's revisit the purpose of a tourbillon, which is to counteract the effects of gravity by ensuring that the regulating organ constantly changes position. In a pocket watch, the tourbillon's flat position was effective because the watch was typically worn vertically in a pocket. However, a wristwatch is more often in a flat position—whether on the wrist or resting on a desk. The idea behind the vertical tourbillon stems from this observation, ensuring that the tourbillon performs its intended function effectively in a wristwatch.

The Tourbillon Souverain Vertical is available in either 950 platinum or 18k 6N red gold, with sapphire crystals on both the front and caseback. It measures 42mm in diameter and 13.60mm in height. Powered by the in-house calibre F.P.Journe 1519, this hand-wound movement operates at 21,600 vph (3Hz) and boasts an 80-hour power reserve.

For more information please visit F.P. Journe’s official website. 

Note: All the images featured in this article are credited to A Collected Man magazine, and F.P. Journe’s website.