Introducing Favre Leuba Unveils Its First Tourbillon Watch

After nearly three centuries of watchmaking history, Favre Leuba reemerged in 2024 with a renewed vision. Last year, at the Geneva Watch Days 2024, the maison proudly announced its triumphant return with three new collections: Chief, Deep Blue, and Sea Sky.

Now, just before the start of Geneva Watch Days 2025, Favre Leuba unveils the Chief Tourbillon, its first-ever tourbillon timepiece since the brand’s founding in 1737. Developed in close collaboration with master watchmaker Jean-François Mojon, the Chief Tourbillon features a striking three-dimensional dial showcasing Favre Leuba’s embossed Hourglass emblem.

The watch boasts a refined cambered cushion case crafted from polished stainless steel, measuring 41 mm in diameter and 11.45 mm in height. A curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating ensures optimal legibility, while the sapphire caseback provides a captivating view of the movement within. The case offers water resistance up to 100 meters.

“The dial is how a timepiece reveals its character,” says Patrik Hoffmann, CEO of the brand. With the Chief Tourbillon, Favre Leuba has developed a dial that honors the significance of this milestone. Designed exclusively for this model.

This exquisite dial reveals an intriguing, three-dimensional design that boldly breaks with conventions. Brought to life by the skilled hands of master craftspeople using specially engineered tools, the embossed Hourglass dial undergoes multiple stages of precision stamping to achieve its distinctive layered depth and complexity.

The pattern of triangles spreads across three distinct tiers, from the surface down to 0.30 mm below. Each motif is delicately crafted on three distinct levels, where fine sunburst triangles rise elegantly above the dial, while matte triangles rest gently below. The space between these two elements forms the foundation of the dial, creating a captivating interplay of light and texture. The result is a dial that reacts dynamically to light, with precisely executed triangular motifs, depth-dependent finishes, and a radiance unique to each surface. This meticulous craftsmanship ensures that no two triangles catch the light in exactly the same way.

Applied indices and hands are both rhodium-plated and coated with Super-LumiNova C1 X1, offering a blue emission.

The tourbillon cage at 6 o'clock, measuring 14.85 mm in diameter, offers an expansive view of the movement in action. The tourbillon bridge features a horizontally brushed finish on its top surface, while its outer edge, which carries the seconds track, showcases a circular-grain finish. At its center, the flame-blued small seconds hand adds a vibrant touch.

At the heart of the Chief Tourbillon beats the FL T01 movement, based on the renowned Chronode C502, an established caliber that Jean-François Mojon has reworked from the ground up for Favre Leuba. Chronode has succeeded in infusing the movement’s architecture with Favre Leuba’s distinctive DNA.

The caseback captivates with its own dedicated decoration: a spiral-relief hourglass set against a laser-engraved background that creates a refined satin-like texture. Blue screws pay tribute to Favre Leuba’s long-standing watchmaking traditions, dating back to 1737.

The Chief Tourbillon comes with an integrated brushed and polished steel bracelet featuring double-link construction and a folding clasp. It is also supplied with an additional black rubber strap with a Favre Leuba pin buckle. This exclusive timepiece is limited to just 25 pieces, priced at 24,800 CHF, which is approximately 103,430 AED.

For more information visit the official website of Favre Leuba.