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The Highest Levels of Craftsmanship Are Embodied in These Two Japan Editions
Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver introduce the latest expansion of the Automatique collection with two new platinum and gold editions, joining this classic time-only collection. Launched in September 2024, the Automatique collection is the second series presented by Biver after the brand’s debut collection, the "Carillon Tourbillon," which combined both a tourbillon and a minute repeater.
These two special editions embody Jean-Claude Biver’s pure classical approach to watchmaking. Featuring platinum and gold cases with enamel dials, the watches emphasize elegance and simplicity inspired by nature while showcasing meticulous attention to detail. They serve as a canvas for exquisite hand decoration. Although they are time-only watches, they are far from simple, as they boast finely detailed movements and refined decoration.
Designed exclusively for the Japanese market in collaboration with The Hour Glass, these editions will be available only at the brand’s boutiques in Japan. The timepieces represent a true fusion of Japanese aesthetics and Swiss watchmaking traditions. Jean-Claude Biver, founder of the brand, expressed:
"Japan has always held a special place in my heart. I remember visiting it during my early days in the watch industry, where I was captivated by the passion of watch collectors. Their deep appreciation for detail and pursuit of perfection left a lasting impression on me, so it is an honor to present these Japanese editions in a country I deeply respect."
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The new Automatique feature the same slim design seen in the previous releases, with a case diameter of 39mm and a thickness of just 10mm. Available in platinum or 18k rose gold, these editions retain the brand’s signature design elements, such as hand-soldered lugs. The polished and fluted bezel enhances the thinness of the watch, drawing attention to the sapphire crystal and dial. The timepiece is water-resistant up to 80 meters.
The watches are available with either a polished white dial paired with a platinum case or a polished black dial matched with a rose gold case.
For these unique dials, Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver collaborated with the renowned Swiss enameling company "Les Émailleurs de la Cité" The process begins with a solid gold dial base, either 22k rose gold or 18k white gold, onto which ultra-thin layers of enamel powders are applied before being fired at temperatures up to 800°C. This melts the powder, forming a smooth, glass-like surface. The process is repeated multiple times to achieve the dial’s signature depth and vibrancy.
Even the slightest imperfection, such as a tiny crack or an unwanted air bubble, results in the entire dial being discarded and the process restarted. Due to this level of craftsmanship, the dials are created as a single piece rather than being constructed from multiple sections, as was done in previous models. The only embellishments on the dial are the Biver logo at 12 o’clock, gold hour markers (white gold for the white dial, rose gold for the black dial), and a chemin de fer minute track encircling the dial.
Each dial requires over 10 hours of meticulous handcrafting, followed by an additional six hours of polishing to achieve a uniform surface. Notably, gold markers on enamel dials are extremely rare due to the risk involved, as the attachment process can cause cracks, ruining the entire piece. To mitigate this, small portions of the gold base remain exposed where the markers are affixed, securing them directly onto the metal rather than the enamel. This ensures stability without damaging the dial but demands extraordinary precision in polishing to eliminate any visible gaps.
As with all Automatique models, these new editions house the JCB-003 caliber, an automatic movement equipped with a 22k gold micro-rotor, making it ideal for cases under 40mm in diameter. Operating at a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour (3.5 Hz), it offers a power reserve of 65 hours.
This movement seamlessly blends technical precision with the artistic finishing characteristic of Biver’s style. It includes both a hacking seconds mechanism and zero-reset functionality, allowing for ultra-precise time setting. Every component is decorated to the highest industry standards, integrating traditional finishing techniques to give the caliber a distinctive aesthetic.
These exclusive editions are available solely at The Hour Glass boutiques in Japan. The platinum model with a white dial is priced at 92,000 CHF (approximately AED 380,450), while the rose gold version with a black dial is priced at 89,000 CHF (approximately AED 368,000).
For more information, visit Biver Watches official website.
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