Introducing Daniel Roth Unveils New Tourbillon Souscription

In the late '80s, amid the emergence of numerous independent watchmakers, Daniel Roth stood out, establishing his brand in 1989 with a focus on promoting high complications and traditional craftsmanship. Initially concentrating on his favored complication, the tourbillon, Roth housed it in a distinctive double-ellipse case that swiftly became the brand's design signature. In 1994, he relinquished his managing stake to a new investor, ushering in a shift in direction that included increased production numbers and a move towards a more contemporary, sporty aesthetic in the design of the timepieces. Despite no longer holding a majority stake, Roth remained involved to some extent.

By 2000, the company was wholly acquired by Bulgari, and Roth departed a year later. Following LVMH's acquisition of Bulgari in 2011, Daniel Roth's brand languished, with little effort from LVMH to revive it. Finally, after 12 years of ownership, LVMH announced the much-needed revival of the brand, introducing their own Souscription Tourbillon—a modern update of Roth's inaugural 1989 release, the C187, scheduled for delivery in early 2024.

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription C187 edition released in 1989

With a commitment to honoring Daniel Roth's original creations while embracing evolution, as articulated by Michel Navas, co-founder of La Fabrique du Temps (now owned by LVMH) leading the revival, the brand is back in capable hands, deserving of the recognition it has earned.

As a testament to the rebirth of the timepiece, the Tourbillon Souscription serves as a fitting homage to the original creation. While maintaining fidelity to its heritage, the new model introduces an entirely new in-house caliber and showcases a guilloche dial crafted from solid gold.

The timeless double ellipse case remains a defining feature, now enhanced with improved ergonomics and a reduced thickness of 9.2mm—an element that has become iconic among enthusiasts of the brand. The lugs, meticulously soldered by hand, have undergone slight reshaping for a more ergonomic design. The crown now proudly bears the Daniel Roth emblem, and its redesign facilitates smoother manual winding. The Tourbillon Souscription is equipped with a solid case back secured by four screws.

The dial, skillfully polished, preserves all the distinctive elements for which a Roth watch is known. It is worth noting that the dials of the 20 Souscription watches are manufactured exclusively by Kari Voutilainen. Although the group had previously acquired two factories in Switzerland specialized in manufacturing dials. but they chose to cooperate with the genius Finnish watchmaker for this watch. The tourbillon regulator, executing one revolution per minute, serves as a second indicator. The tourbillon cage incorporates a three-armed seconds hand, each arm with a varying length, pointing to different sectors on the seconds' scale.

The watch comes with a manually wound DR001 caliber, beating at 3 Hz. It provides a decent power reserve of 80 hours. The caliber is entirely manufactured at the La Fabrique du Temp factory and has undergone meticulous hand-finishing to meet the highest standards. While the movement is hidden beneath the gold case back, most of the movement's 206 components have been meticulously and masterfully crafted. From the beveled edges of the bridges, to the finishes on the ratchet wheel and chain gear.

Presented with a calfskin strap, this limited edition watch consists of only 20 pieces, priced at CHF 140,000, equivalent to 596,000 AED.

For more information, please visit the official website of Daniel Roth.