Summary Waqt Picks 5 of the Best Perpetual Calendar Watches in 2024

The world of luxury watchmaking is filled with stunning details and unique complications, with the perpetual calendar standing out as one of the most inspiring creations in the field. Not only does it track the passage of time and account for leap years, but it can also often include a moon phase indicator. The perpetual calendar is more than just an additional function; it is a testament to the craftsmanship of the watchmaker and the refined taste of the collector.

This year, we reviewed the latest releases in this prestigious category, and selecting the best was no easy task, as each watch showcased a distinctive character that reflected the timeless allure of this historical complication. After careful analysis, we identified five exceptional watches that stood out for their innovation and exquisite design.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar

We’ve said it before, and we’ll say it again, you simply can’t go wrong with choosing a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch. This year’s releases have once again proven why the brand holds such a revered place in haute horology. Among the standout creations of 2024 is the new Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar, unveiled during Watches and Wonders. Featuring a 39mm case with an impressively slim 9.2mm profile, the design has undergone thoughtful modernization, including refined proportions and sleeker, elongated lugs that enhance comfort on wrists of all sizes. The pink gold variant, paired with an elegant eggshell dial, particularly stood out with its aesthetics.

The dial showcases the moon phase display at 12 o’clock, complemented by a date disk at 3 o’clock, month at 6 o’clock, and day disk at 9 o’clock, with a rectangular year window positioned between them. Powered by the in-house Caliber 868, an automatic movement boasting a 70-hour power reserve, this timepiece is part of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s permanent collection and is priced at approximately AED 146,500.

Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary

This year marks Breitling’s 140th anniversary, a significant milestone in the brand’s storied history. To celebrate, Breitling has unveiled three exceptional timepieces, each showcasing their first-ever in-house perpetual calendar movement, the Caliber B19. Among these releases, the Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar stands out, thanks to its radiant golden sunburst dial, distinguishing itself from the black dials of the other anniversary models.

The watch comes in a 18k red gold case, measures 43mm in diameter and 15.6mm in thickness, with a bidirectional bezel featuring the signature circular slide rule. The dial integrates four subdials that elegantly combine the perpetual calendar and chronograph functions. The moon phase display takes center stage at 12 o’clock, while the date indicator and 30-minute chronograph counter are positioned at 3 o’clock. 

At 6 o’clock, the month and leap year indicators are displayed, and at 9 o’clock, the outer track marks the day, with the small seconds nested inside. Limited to just 140 pieces, with pricing available upon request.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Perpetual Hijri Calendar 

Parmigiani Fleurier has captivated watch enthusiasts this year, particularly those in the Middle East, with the release of the Tonda PF Hijri Calendar. This horological masterpiece is based on the Tabular Islamic calendar, a system developed by Muslim scholars and astronomers in the 8th century. The calendar allows for the conversion of Islamic dates to Gregorian ones, making the Hijri Perpetual Calendar both possible and significant. The Hijri calendar’s first year corresponds to 622 CE, marking the Prophet Muhammad’s migration (Hijrah) from Mecca to Medina.

The watch features a 42mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 11.2mm, complemented by Parmigiani’s signature fluted bezel, crafted from 950 platinum. Its stunning green dial harmonizes beautifully with the case, showcasing an array of intricate displays. At 3 o’clock, a sub-dial indicates the numbered months of the year, with Ramadan highlighted in vibrant red, while the 6 o’clock subdial presents a blue aventurine moon phase display, illustrating the moon’s position in both the northern and southern hemispheres.

Powered by the Caliber PF009 automatic movement with a 48-hour power reserve, this remarkable timepiece is priced at approximately AED 260,000.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen

A. Lange & Söhne is one of Germany’s most celebrated watchmakers, and among its iconic creations is the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon, a watch renowned for its triple complication and bold design. This year, the brand elevated this piece with the release of the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen,” marking the first use of Honeygold, Lange’s exclusive gold alloy, within this collection.

The watch also features the brand’s patented Lumen technology, which came with a unique challenge, achieving uniform luminescence beneath the dial. Lange solved this with a partially tinted sapphire crystal dial that allows ultraviolet light to permeate, energizing the luminous elements and producing a glow in the dark. The case measures 41.5mm in diameter and 14.6mm in thickness. The case incorporates traditional chronograph pushers and rapid correctors to adjust the moonphase, day of the week, month, and leap year, all protected beneath a sapphire crystal.

Powering this intricate watch is the manual-winding Caliber L952.4, which features a tourbillon and offers a 50-hour power reserve. The watch is limited to just 50 pieces, and the price is available upon request.

IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Traditional perpetual calendars operate on a four-year cycle, assuming three common years followed by a leap year. However, they cannot account for exceptions like the year 2100, which is not a leap year, requiring manual corrections. These adjustments occur three times every 400 years. So this year, IWC launched the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, the brand’s first-ever secular perpetual calendar.

The Secular Calendar is a remarkable evolution of the perpetual calendar complication, engineered to account for extraordinary non-leap years such as 2100 and 2200. Few watches possess the intricate mechanisms required for such precision, making this timepiece a standout innovation. The watch features a platinum case measuring 44.4mm in diameter and 15mm in thickness. Its dial, lacquered in white on the underside and crafted with an upper glass disc, elegantly displays its advanced complications. Among them is a moon phase indicator at 12 o'clock, presented through IWC’s distinctive Double Moon display.

Powered by the IWC-manufactured 52640 caliber, this automatic movement offers an impressive seven-day (168-hour) power reserve. Pricing remains available upon request.

A perpetual calendar complication is not just a technical marvel; it is also an essential addition to any watch collector’s collection, even if many do not yet own one. This complication enhances the overall aesthetic of a watch, capturing the attention of even those who may not fully understand its intricacies. The array of complications and the craftsmanship behind these watches are a testament to the precision and expertise required to create such exceptional movements. For watch collectors, owning a watch with a perpetual calendar complication affirms their appreciation for the art of watchmaking while reflecting their passion and refined taste.