Introducing Universal Genève Unveils Its First Three Watches

To commemorate the 70th anniversary of Scandinavian Airlines System's (SAS) historic first flight over the North Pole from Copenhagen to Los Angeles in 1954, Universal Genève is unveiling three special tribute Polerouter SAS watches. 

These releases come ahead of the brand’s anticipated revival in 2026, as recently announced through its newly launched website and social media platforms. While the full relaunch is still two years away, Universal Genève is marking this milestone with these exceptional limited editions, celebrating its enduring partnership with SAS.

In 1954, a shared spirit of innovation led SAS to commission Universal Genève to create a watch capable of withstanding the rigors of polar aviation. The inaugural SAS flight on November 15, 1954, revolutionized long-haul travel by shaving 2,600 kilometers off the route between Copenhagen and Los Angeles. In response, Universal Genève designed the now-iconic Polerouter—a timepiece that combined precision, durability, and elegance.

Designed by a 23-year-old Gérald Genta, who would later become one of the most renowned watch designers in history, the Polerouter was engineered to resist shocks, magnetism, and moisture, making it suitable for extreme climates. Despite its robust functionality, the watch maintained a timeless aesthetic defined by simplicity and grace.

The new Polerouter SAS Tribute collection builds on the classic Genta design while incorporating modern advancements. All three timepieces feature a reimagined 35mm case with a height of 9.95mm, preserving the iconic twisted lugs and sleek lines of the original. Enhancements include a cambered sapphire crystal, a reworked solid caseback, and a crown with a double gasket to ensure water resistance up to 50 meters.

The watches boast innovative two-part dials available in blue, silver, and black. The hour chapter ring is guillochéd with a diamond-tipped tool, creating a dazzling brilliance that contrasts beautifully with the satin-finished dial. Red-gold-plated hands adorn the black and silver dials, while rhodium-plated hands complement the blue version.

The Polerouter made history in the late 1950s with its groundbreaking “Microtor” automatic caliber, the world’s thinnest movement at just 4.1mm. Featuring a two-day power reserve, this innovation repositioned the rotor between the plate and bridges, rather than above the movement, setting a new standard for creativity in watchmaking.

The first Polerouter SAS Tribute watch showcases both the new Universal Genève logo and the historic SAS logo on its vibrant blue dial. Paired with a handcrafted white-gold bracelet, this unique timepiece will be auctioned by Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo in May 2025. Proceeds from the auction will benefit CFP Arts in Geneva, an institution dedicated to preserving the art of watchmaking for future generations.

The other two tribute watches are inspired by original designs and reflect the elegance and craftsmanship of the Polerouter legacy. Unlike the piece intended for auction, these two watches will join Universal Genève's private archive, solidifying their status as treasures of horological history.

The bracelet for these timepieces, a nod to Universal Genève’s historic designs, was crafted by Laurent Jolliet, the last chaîniste (chain-maker) in Switzerland. His artisanal expertise ensures that these tribute watches not only honor the brand’s past but also showcase the meticulous craftsmanship that defines its future.

For more information visit the official website of Universal Geneve.