In Depth The star of 2023 GPHG

At the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the prestigious Aiguille d’Or (Best of Show trophy) was awarded to a unique timepiece. This year's top honor was bestowed upon the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle, a watch distinguished by its 40 functions and 23 complications. Recognized as one of the most intricate wrist watches ever produced, highlighting the GPHG 2023 jury's commitment to celebrating the zenith of watchmaking.

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet represents a collection that stands out for its modern and multifaceted architecture, offering a variety of aesthetic and technical features. This collection is noted for its classic essence paired with a modern design approach, which resonates with AP's tradition of pushing the boundaries of watchmaking. Early on this year, Audemars Piguet has selected the Code 11.59 series as the platform for its most complex creation to date, the Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4, epitomizing the pinnacle of horological artistry.

The watch pays homage to the historic 1899 L’Universelle pocket watch movement, a testament to its legacy of complexity and craftsmanship, as It was showcased at the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet within the permanent exhibition with 26 functions, including 19 complications. The Ultra-Complication Universelle features 40 functions, with 23 complications, which include Grande Sonnerie, Petite Sonnerie, minute repeater, day, date, month, year, moon phases, astronomical moon, and split-seconds flyback chronograph, semi-Gregorian perpetual calendar that skips the leap year every 100 years.

The Code 11.59 Universelle Ultra-Complication RD#4 originally came in four variants, blending modern and traditional aesthetics. For those favoring a contemporary design, there are two models with what the brand terms as architectural dials (openworked), available in either white or pink gold. The other two variants, embodying a more classic style, feature closed dials in a choice of black or beige, elegantly encased in white gold. Additionally, a fifth variant was introduced this year, featuring a pink gold case and a closed dial, which notably secured the prestigious Aiguille d’Or award 2023.

The RD#4 in the Code 11.59 Universelle Ultra-Complication marks it as the fourth timepiece in Audemars Piguet's Research and Development series, a tradition that began with the Royal Oak Concept Acoustic Research RD#1 in 2015. This was followed by the 2019 Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin RD#2, still recognized as the thinnest automatic winding perpetual calendar among full-rotor models. Last year, in celebration of the Royal Oak's 50th anniversary, the series expanded with the Royal Oak Self-Winding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3. Giulio Papi, AP’s technical director and his team developed the Code 11.59 Universelle Ultra-Complication RD#4 which not only encapsulates the achievements of its predecessors but also showcases Audemars Piguet's years of expertise in horological craftsmanship.

In the Code 11.59 collection, the 41mm case size is a standard feature, alongside the notable 38mm option. However, for the RD#4, AP has expanded the case dimensions to 42mm, complemented by a thickness of 15.55mm, it may not be the thinnest, but still, ranks number one among the ultra-complicated wristwatches. The RD#4 innovatively replaces traditional grand complication pushers with labeled push-pieces on the case's left side. Additionally, on the right, multifunctional crowns with integrated push-pieces handle several functions, streamlining operation. 

The watch conveniently allows the wearer to select between Grande Sonnerie, Petite Sonnerie, and silence mode through the crown positioned at 2 o’clock, with each mode distinctly marked on the crown side. In the Grande Sonnerie mode, it chimes the passing hours and quarter-hours, while Petite Sonnerie limits the chiming to the hours only. The silent mode on the other hand, turns off the chiming. The minute repeater, a separate feature, is activated by the pusher at 10 o’clock. Importantly, a specially dedicated barrel, which is alternately wound with the main barrel, powers all these chiming functions. Audemars Piguet's Supersonnerie technology, redesigned for exceptional sound quality, attaches gongs to a soundboard rather than the mainplate, also allowing visibility of the watch's internal mechanisms. A lever under the 3 o’clock crown opens the extra-thin “secret” cover.

The central crown at 3 o’clock serves a dual purpose, enabling the owner to both wind the watch and set the time and date. Additionally, the crown at 4 o’clock is ingeniously designed for quick month and year adjustments; it allows for fast corrections both forwards and backwards with partial rotation and conveniently auto-returns to its neutral position once the adjustment is complete. On the left side of the case, the upper pusher, distinguished by an engraved keynote, is dedicated to activating the minute repeater. The middle pusher, marked with 'WD', facilitates rapid weekday correction, while the lower one is tailored for adjusting the moon phase. The operation of this timepiece's chronograph is designed for ease and intuitiveness. At 2 o'clock, the crown, marked with a musical note symbol, integrates a pusher to start and stop the flyback chronograph. The split-seconds function is activated by a pusher in the central crown at 3 o’clock, while the push-button at 4 o'clock is responsible for the flyback and zero-reset actions, rounding off the watch's comprehensive set of functions.

The dial integrates the day and month window into the chronograph sub-dials, with a large date window positioned at 12 o’clock, and a month indicator that lies at 3 o’clock. The year indicator is located at 4 o’clock, while the flying tourbillon is located at 6 o'clock. At 9 o’clock lies the date indicator, and the moon phase indicator is aligned with the year display that uses two concentric discs to show ten different moon phases at 8 o’clock, accurately maintaining its setting for 122 years with continuous operation. The perpetual calendar remains precise till the year 2400, with an automatic adjustment for each month's length and leap years, ensuring the correct transition of day, date, month, and year.

The watch is powered by the AP1000 caliber, featuring a flying tourbillon, more than 1,100 components and 90 jewels, operates at 21,600 vph (3Hz), and boasts 64-hour of power reserve. Its energy is derived from a large main barrel, complemented by a dedicated barrel for functions, achieving a compact yet efficient design.

The watch is priced at CHF 1,723,200  which is equivalent to AED 7,016,200, paired with a black rubber strap with a Folding buckle.

For more information please visit GPHG website, and click here to know more about the winners of the GPHG 2023.