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The 1,000-Hour Power Reserve Gets a New Grand Feu Enamel Dial
One of the independent brands that caught our attention at Dubai Watch Week 2023 was Haute-Rive. During the event, we had the pleasure of meeting its founder, Stéphane von Gunten, the fifth generation of a family of watchmakers. He introduced us to his innovative designs and shared the story behind his creations.
Stéphane von Gunten’s approach to watchmaking is deeply rooted in formal elegance and technical ingenuity. For the Honoris I, he aimed to create a dress watch that embodies visible mechanical attributes and high performance. Now, he unveils the newest edition, crafted in rose gold and featuring new dial colors and techniques, while the previous editions were available in white and yellow gold.
Haute-Rive meaning "high shore", takes its name from the shores of Lake Neuchâtel in Chez-le-Bart, near St-Aubin, where von Gunten’s ancestor, Irénée Aubry, established his workshop. The Honoris I case measures 42.5mm in diameter and 11.95mm in thickness, crafted entirely in 18k rose gold. Its fully polished, classic rounded design is topped with a pronounced bezel featuring a crimped-style edge.
This bezel plays a crucial role, as it is used to wind the manual movement, which boasts an astonishing 1,000-hour power reserve. Using the crown to wind such a powerful movement would be impractical due to the torque required to wind the 3-meter-long mainspring. The crown is instead reserved for setting the time, while a pusher operates the function selector. The power reserve indicator is located on the case back.
Haute-Rive opted for a grand feu enamel dial to complement the Honoris I’s classic aesthetic. Previously available in black or white, the new editions feature dials in midnight blue and eggshell white. The dial design combines smooth enamel with exposed timekeeping elements. The central hour and minute leaf hands are crafted from 18k rose gold. At 12 o’clock, an oversized part of the central gear train is visible, while a 60-second tourbillon occupies the 6 o’clock position.
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The grand feu enamel dials are made using the champlevé technique. Thin gold wires outline the shapes, which are then filled with enamel and fired to fuse the material. Afterward, the surface is polished to reveal a smooth, vibrant design that contrasts beautifully with the metal base.
Powering the watch is Stéphane von Gunten’s first caliber, the HR01. This manual-winding movement offers an impressive 1,000-hour power reserve, lasting over 40 days from a single barrel. The barrel, containing a 3-meter-long mainspring, is integrated into the movement’s mainplate. The HR01 beats at a frequency of 18,000 VPH (2.5 Hz).
The barrel communicates on one side with the power reserve indicator, located on the case back. The indicator features a 360-degree graduated ring from 0 to 1000, offering optimal readability at all times, unlike traditional gauges. On the other side, the barrel engages a differential that connects it to the gear train and winding mechanism. Winding is achieved by turning the bezel counterclockwise.
The Honoris I’s function selector is a unique innovation. It is linked to a crown that cannot be pulled out, a column wheel, and a sliding pinion located on the longest and most visible of all the crown stems. This mechanism directly engages the gear train for setting the time, right at the heart of the HR01 caliber.
The Haute-Rive Honoris I midnight blue edition is paired with a matching blue alligator strap, while the eggshell white edition is presented on a brown alligator strap. Both editions are limited to a production of 10 pieces per year and are priced at CHF 148,000, equivalent to AED 608,000.
For more information, visit Haute Rive official website.
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