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Konstantin Chaykin Breaks the Record for World's Thinnest Mechanical Watch

For many years, the world’s leading watchmaking companies have been competing to produce the thinnest mechanical watches. Prestigious brands such as PiagetBulgari, and Richard Mille have been at the forefront of this race, with Bulgari securing a prominent position, dominating various categories. Recently, Bulgari made headlines by reintroducing its ultra-thin minute repeater during the first day of the Geneva Watch Days. Piaget previously held the title for the thinnest tourbillon watch at the Watches and Wonders event.

However, a new contender has emerged from Eastern Europe. Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin unveiled a prototype that puts him at the forefront of the ultra-thin watch category.

Introducing Holthinrichs Launches the First Serially Produced Dutch Movement

The New Ornament Nouveau Watch from the Dutch Independent Brand

Holthinrichs, founded by Michiel Holthinrichs in 2016, quickly attracted attention for its innovative use of 3D printing in watchmaking. This independent Dutch company seamlessly blends modern technology with traditional craftsmanship, creating distinctive, architecturally inspired timepieces. The brand has succeeded in developing watch designs that bear its unique signature.

This year, the company achieved an unprecedented milestone in the Dutch watch industry by introducing the first serially produced Dutch-made mechanical watch movement. This groundbreaking development is showcased globally for the first time in the "Holthinrichs Ornament Nouveau" watch, which has been nominated in the Men’s Watch category at the Geneva Grand Prix d'Horlogerie (GPHG) 2024.

True to Holthinrichs' signature style, the defining characteristic of the Nouveau Ornament is its sculptural design, not only in the case and dial but also in the movement itself. This watch draws inspiration from Art Nouveau and Early Modernist architecture, realized through a three-dimensional design using modern metal binder jetting technology, CNC machining, and manual finishing.

The case, made from titanium grade 5, measures 39.5mm in width, 48.5mm in length, and just 9.5mm in height. Parts of the case remain unfinished to highlight the manufacturing process, aligning with the modernist concept of “Horlogerie Brut” (a nod to Le Corbusier’s Béton Brut). The watch is equipped with a 3D-printed titanium crown, sapphire crystal on both the front and back, and is water-resistant to 50 meters.

The dial of the Nouveau Ornament is a departure from the brand’s usual designs. Made from a UV-sensitive, photochromic material, the dial turns dark gray when exposed to UV light but remains translucent otherwise, allowing a view of the movement beneath. The hours and minutes hands are crafted from stainless steel, while the ring surrounding the dial, made from titanium, features milled hour indices.

The standout feature of the Nouveau Ornament is its in-house movement, the hand-wound caliber HW-M02. Despite its simple function of telling hours and minutes, the movement is complex in execution, with a thickness of only 4mm. The mainplate, made of brass, features a double concave shape, creating a striking optical three-dimensional effect. It is available in four galvanic colors: 18K gold, 18K rose gold, white rhodium, or black rhodium.

Stainless steel bridges are cantilevered above the center of the movement, each treated as miniature sculptures with multiple interacting three-dimensional surfaces and finished with contrasting textures and anglage for maximum depth. The in-house developed variable inertia balance wheel, held in place by an exceptional three-dimensional glass bridge (dubbed the “Holthinbridge”), is a highlight. The movement beats at 21,600 vph (3 Hz) and offers an 82-hour power reserve from two barrels.

The Nouveau Ornament is limited to 100 pieces, with the atelier's capacity capped at 20 timepieces per year. Prototypes will be showcased at Geneva Watch Days. The first unique example will be available for direct sale at Phillips auction in Hong Kong, priced at 67,138 CHF (approximately 286,000 AED).

The strap of the Nouveau Ornament is made from hornback alligator with a large scale size and features a 3D-printed titanium buckle, adding to the watch's exclusivity and luxurious appeal.

 

For more informations, please visit Holthinrichs official website.

Technical specifications: Holthinrichs Ornament Nouveau
  1. Reference: HHH_01
  2. Case: 3D printed grade 5 titanium case, Parts of the case are unfinished and selective hand-polishing parts, sapphire crystal front & back 
  3. Size: 39.5 x 48.5 mm
  4. Height: 9.5 mm 
  5. Water resistant: 50 m
  6. Dial: A trasnparent dial made out of UV-sensitive photochromic material, The dial turns dark gray in UV lighting, protecting the skeleton movement from damaging UV light, stainless steel sword-shaped hands, titanium dial ring showcasing the hour indices 
  7. Movement: Manuel wound Caliber HW-M02, in house, Skeleton movement, mainplate is made out of brass, stainless steel bridges, double barrel, 24 jewels
  8. Power reserve: 82 hours
  9. Frequency: 21,600 vph (3hz) 
  10. Functions: Hours, minutes
  11. Bracelet / Strap: brown alligator leather strap with signature Holthinrichs 3D printed titanium buckle
  12. Availability: Limited Production of 100 pieces
  13. Price: 67,138 CHF / 286,000 AED

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