Article of the week
The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon in Steel

This year has been an exciting one for Jaeger-LeCoultre, especially after our enlightening visit to the "Precision Pioneer" exhibition at the Dubai International Financial Center (DIFC). The exhibition beautifully showcased the brand's rich history, spotlighting its contributions to the world of horology. One of the most captivating releases we encountered was the stunning Master Grande Tradition Caliber 948 World-Timer

But the excitement didn’t end there. Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to push the boundaries in 2024, introducing the Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon in steel. This follows the 18k pink gold model that debuted at Watches and Wonders Geneva in 2023, adding a fresh new chapter to the iconic Reverso lineup. 

Hands on Konstantin Chaykin Breaks the Record for World's Thinnest Mechanical Watch

As the ultra-thin watch competition intensifies, the ThinKing reigns at just 1.65 mm

For many years, the world’s leading watchmaking companies have been competing to produce the thinnest mechanical watches. Prestigious brands such as PiagetBulgari, and Richard Mille have been at the forefront of this race, with Bulgari securing a prominent position, dominating various categories. Recently, Bulgari made headlines by reintroducing its ultra-thin minute repeater during the first day of the Geneva Watch Days. Piaget previously held the title for the thinnest tourbillon watch at the Watches and Wonders event.

However, a new contender has emerged from Eastern Europe. Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin unveiled a prototype that puts him at the forefront of the ultra-thin watch category. Presenting the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Prototype, the new world record holder for the thinnest mechanical watch. At just 1.65 mm thick, it surpasses the previous record of 1.70 mm held by Bulgari with its Octo Finissimo Ultra.

The ThinKing watch is still in its second prototype phase, developed by the independent watchmaking company based in Moscow. The watch features three patents pending, representing significant technological advancements in its design.

We recently witnessed Chaykin’s most complicated timepiece, the Stargazer. Originally created as a unique piece for the Only Watch auction, it later joined the famous “Wristmon” collection, known for the Joker. Now, the record-breaking ThinKing joins this renowned collection.

Achieving such extreme thinness required meticulous precision on every component. The case, measuring only 1.65 mm thick and 40 mm in diameter, is crafted from a special stainless steel alloy for added rigidity. The watch lacks a visible crown, and the time is displayed through two separate windows. The design is linked to the "Wristmon" family, with the company’s logo and name forming a “nose and mouth” on the dial. The hands, which show the hours and minutes, are actually gears within the movement, with a thickness of just 0.35 mm.

Chaykin used the caseback as the mainplate for the movement to support the gear train. This technique is similar to what brands like Piaget and Bulgari have done, but Chaykin took additional steps to avoid structural bending.

The Russian watchmaker didn’t stop there. He introduced the "PalanKing" case, an external holder designed to provide extra rigidity. When attached, the PalanKing increases the watch's size to 45 mm in diameter and 5.4 mm in thickness, while also serving multiple practical purposes.

The ThinKing’s movement operates on two horizontal planes. To achieve a record-setting thickness of just 1.65 mm, Chaykin restructured the traditional balance wheel architecture, which typically stacks components on top of each other. By separating them and adding a cylindrical balance wheel, the company drastically reduced the movement's thickness. The balance wheel, still connected to the balance spring, is now toothed and interacts with a cylindrical wheel. These gears are connected to a Swiss lever escapement with a pallet fork. The barrel has also been redesigned with an integrated winding mechanism, eliminating the need for a traditional cover. Despite its ultra-thin construction, the ThinKing offers a power reserve of 32 hours.

The in-house K.23-0 calibre features 204 components and 51 jewels, running at a frequency of 18,000 vph. The movement has two pending patents for the double balance wheel and the mainspring barrel. The ThinKing uniquely showcases exposed jewels, a rare feature in mechanical watchmaking, and can be wound using a key.

One important point to note is that the ThinKing cannot be set while worn on the wrist without the PalanKing carrier case. However, the PalanKing adds more functionality. It includes a crown for manual winding and setting the time, thanks to two stems connected to the winding mechanism and the minute wheel. Additionally, the PalanKing features an automatic winding system powered by a micro-rotor, adding versatility to the watch.

The Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing is a unique prototype, presented with a black alligator leather strap featuring flexible black inserts and titanium supports (patent pending) and a stainless steel pin buckle.

 

For more information, please visit Konstantin Chaykin official website.

Technical Specifications: Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Prototype
  1. Case: ultra-thin stainless steel, without the strap, sapphire crystal for the hour and minute subdials
  2. Diameter: 40 mm
  3. Thickness: 1.65 mm
  4. Weight: 13.3 g
  5. PalanKing Structure: adding rigidity and functions, makes the watch self-winding when attached, 44 components
  6. Diameter: 45 mm
  7. Thickness: 5.4 mm
  8. Dial: Joker-style indicators for hours (left) and minutes (right), "hands" printed directly on gears
  9. Movement: Ultra-thin ThinKing Calibre K.23-0, in-house, manual winding, 51 jewels, 204 components, double balance wheel with gear coupling (patents pending)
  10. Power Reserve: 32 hours
  11. Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz)
  12. Functions: Hours, minutes
  13. Movement in PalanKing case: Caliber K.23-1, in-house, automatic winding with micro-rotor, 19 jewels, 136 components
  14. Strap: Black alligator leather with flexible inserts and flexible titanium supports, stainless steel pin buckle
  15. Availability: Unique prototype
  16. Price: Upon request

0 Comments